Method and means for molding edge portions of material



Sept. 10, ELLA METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDING EDGE PORTIONS OF MATERIALFiled July 3, 1933 3 Sheets-Sheet l 20 ATTORNEY RIAL P 1935- F.PAPARELLA METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDING EDGE PORTIONS OF MATE Filed July3, 1933 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 N l/EN TOR vvozm vcxkax'i A ATTORNEY.

Sept. 10, 1935. F. PAPARELLA 2,013,835

METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDING EDGE PORTIONS OF MATERIAL Filed July 3,1933 5. Sheets-Sheet 3 l \IGLTFTMF Patented Sept. 19, 1935 UNETE STATZfiiatid METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDENG EDGE PORTIONS OF MATERIAL 22Claims.

This invention relates to garment pressing methods and devices andparticularly to a process and apparatus for molding and shaping edgeportions of multi-ply material whereby to reprodues in the material, thepattern of the garment.

In the manufacture of clothing considerable difiiculty has beenexperienced in shaping edge portions of material and this problem hasbeen most troublesome in the formation of the lapel and collar portionsof coats and overcoats. Heretofore it has apparently been impossible, asa practical matter, to shape lapels and collars to conform exactly tothe outline of the pattern and this problem has been a matter of concernto clothing manufacturers as it is to the relatively minute details ofthe shape of those portions of the garment that the skill of thedesigner is chiefly directed and to which the style of the garment islargely attributable. the carefully considered details of the patternhave commonly appeared as a distortion in the edge contour of thematerial particularly at the point of the lapel, a substantial departurefrom the pattern in the angle of the notch separating the lapel andcollar and a discrepancy involved in the manual operation of folding orturning back the exposed surface of the lapel and collar whichheretofore has been an operation involving considerable skill.

I have found that the above-noted difficulties can be obviated and alapel and collar produced which conforms exactly to the edge contour ofthe pattern by initially steaming the material to render it plastic andthereafter externally confining and crowding the edge of the material tothe shape of the pattern whereby to produce a billowing or undulating ofthe surplus material so confined. I then apply pressure in a directionnormal to the surfaces of the material whereby simultaneously to pressthe surfaces and to mold the edge portions by resisting the resultantextrusion or lateral spreading of the material at the edges causedpartly by the flattening of the billows. The effectiveness of this edgemolding operation is enhanced by a further step in my method wherein,while maintaining or even increasing the pressure between the edge ofthe material and its confining body, I pass that body transversely ofthe edge of the material to iron the same.

The lapel and collar of a finished garment which is ready to wearcomprises the outer and inner surfaces of material which are bounded atone edge by the molded seam referred to above and at the other edge bythe crease or fold on Deviations from Canada January 21, 1933 which thematerial is turned back to form the exposed lapel and collar surface. Mymethod secures the proper shaping of the exposed surface in its entiretyby molding the seamed edge, pressing the outer and inner surfaces andsimultaneously initiating the fold in the proper position relative tothe shaped edge, thereby mechanically defining the lapel and collar inthe exact shape desired. The fold'initiating step I have accomplished byforming an elongated impression in the material while its edge portionis being molded so that, as the edge is brought to the desired contourand the surfaces are being pressed, the position of the fold in relationto the shaped edge is mechanically predetermined. 1

Any suitable apparatus may be employed for carrying out my novel processbut I have devised novel apparatus which I have found to be particularlywell adapted for that purpose and which I have made the subject matterof my prior copending application, filed October 13, 1932, Serial Number637,622, of which the present application is a continuation in part.

It is the object of my present invention not only to provide a method ofmolding multi-ply mate- 25 rial which is adapted for use to mold coats.overcoats and the like but also to improve on the apparatus disclosed inmy above-noted application. This latter object I have secured byproviding novel upper and lower presser members which can beincorporated in an ordinary pressing machine and which, as will appear,are so adapted for use with my novel mold as to improve in the operationof the mold over that obtained by the use of my moldwith common forms ofpressing machines now on the market.

In the drawings:-

Fig. l is a perspective view of the forepart and facing of a garmentshown inside out during the process of manufacture;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the garment portions of Fig. 1 shownafter the turning operation;

Fig. 3 shows a coat completely made and ready for my novel lapel andcollar molding process;

Fig. l is a vertical sectional view taken on the line .--l of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a completely made lapel and collar, showndisposed adjacent my novel mold which is formed in the shape of thepattern, to indicate the departure of the lapel and collar portions fromthe desired edge contour;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a lapel and collar portion of a garmentduring an initial stage in the molding process;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the finished lapel and collar portion aftermolding, showing the position of the fold defining impression;

Fig. 8 is a sectional elevation view on the line 8-8 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 8 with the parts shown at a later stagein the method;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of my novel supporting table and upperpresser member adapted for use with my molds;

Fig. 11 is a plan view of the supporting table;

Fig. 12 is an elevation view, partly broken away, of the parts shown inFig. 11;

Fig. 13 is a sectional elevation view taken on the line i3-l3 of Fig. 11but showing the upper presser member closed on the material adjacent themold;

Fig. 14 is an enlarged sectional elevation view of a detail of Fig. 13,and

Fig. 15 is an enlarged sectional elevation view taken on the line i 5-45of Fig. 11.

Referring to the drawings and particularly to Fig. 1, the lapel of agarment is usually made of two plies of material, the forepart iextending from the shaped edge 2 to the edge 3 where the forepart joinsthe back of the garment in a seam, and a second ply 4 called the facingand extending from the edge 5 to the edge where it is joined to thelining i. At the stage of manufacture illustrated in Fig. l, the lapelis insideout, the canvas iii, usually padded, has been caught to theinner surface (now exposed) of the forepart I by stitching H whichcatches but does not pass completely through the forepart (Fig. l); theforepart and facing have been superimposed and cut to form the edges 2and 5 and the edge seam H has been stitched through the forepart I,facing 4 and a piece of tape i4 commonly provided to prevent stretchingof the material at the edge. As illustrated in Fig. 4, the canvas itterminates short of the seam i2 and the tape It is caught to the canvasby a row of stitching 55. The collar has not yet been attached and willlater be joined to the lapel along the rough edges indicated at it.

I am assuming that the lapel is being made of heavy overcoat materialand that the designer has chosen a sharply pointed lapel as best suitedfor the style of garment being made, as is common in double breastedovercoats, and I have illustrated the sharp point desired at 32A in Fig.'7 which shows the finished lapel after having been molded in accordancewith my invention. The line of stitching i2 forming the seam is made toconform as nearly as possible to the desired shape and for that purposeis brought as nearly as possible to the sharp point illustrated at 28.

The forepart and facing, after being joined at the seam I 2, are turnedright side out as shown in Fig. 2, and in this turning operation theoperative tries to shape the lapel to makeit conform as nearly aspossible to the pattern. To do this the cloth must be manually forcedback from the seam IE to bring the seam as nearly as possible to theouter edge of the lapel because, it will be remembered, the seam is madeto conform as closely as possible to the outline of the pattern. Thematerial is usually basted progressively as the edge is worked asindicated at ii to hold the material as it is being manipulated andprevent the seam from rolling back as indicated at the unbasted portion2?. To force out the point of the lapel a sharply pointed implethe shapeof the pattern regardless of how care- 5 fully it is performed. Themanual pulling of the bulky material causes it to stretch more at someportions than others to produce a wavy contour and it is exceedinglydifiicult to force the material back from ths seam evenly at all porlotions. The point of the lapel will almost inevitably be bulging androunded rather than sharply pointed as desired due to the practicalinability of the operative to completely reverse the pointed seamstitching. Even with the seam cloth l5 partly cut away at the point, thetip will be bulky and under the common pressing operations as practicedheretofore the flattening of the point causes the excess seam cloth toextrude or fiatten out and thereby cause the edge contour of 20 the tipto depart still further from the desired sharp point. The constructionof a lapel and the precautions taken in an effort to preserve the shapeof the pattern are not described in detail herein as the difficultiesinvolved are well-known 25 to clothing manufacturers and my manner ofsolving the problem will be fully appreciated by them.

After the turning operation the lapel is frequently given a marginalline of stitching as 30- shown at 22 (Fig. 3) to give the lapel a moredressy appearance and this stitching passes completely through thecanvas-padded fore-part and facing, joining those two plies internally.Thereafter the coat is finished, the collar being joined by a seam 23and the buttonhole 2 1 being formed by cutting through both plies ofmaterial and lining the hole with a marginal line of stitching.

After the coat has been completely made, as

indicated in Fig. 3, it is ready for the pressing operations when myinvention comes into use.

The specific manner in which the lapel of a completely manufactured coatusually departs from the design of the pattern may well be illustratedby a comparison of the lapel with the mold of my apparatus which isshaped in exact conformity with the pattern. Thus I have illustrated inFig. 5 a portion of a coat having a lapel 35 and collar 3! restingadjacent a pressing mold 32. edge 33 which, as illustrated more clearlyin Fig. 6, comprises a portion 33A shaped to conform to the front edgeof the lapel of the attern and a molding edge 33B conforming to theinitial edge portion of the collar and separated from the portion 33A byan angular molding portion 330 which is adapted to receive the tip ofthe lapel and, in accordance with the design of the pattern illustrated,is brought to a sharp point 333). The molding edge 33 also includes theside surfaces of a projecting strip 33E adapted to fit nicely into thenotch separating the collar and lapel portions of the pattern. Comparingthe contour of the entire molding edge which, stated, exactly conformsto the pattern, wi" the lapel and collar portions 39 and 35 of garmentillustrated in Fig. 5, it will be noted that the long edge it of thelapel is wavy and not smoothly curved in conformity with the pati :n.Probably the discrepancies illustrated have arisen through unequalturning back of the material adjacent the edge seam or possibly thematerial has been stretched more in some places than in oth ers. Insewing the buttonhole l! the operative usually tensions. the clothconsiderably at cer- The mold 32 has a molding wall 5O nally tainportions of the edge and the material is also contracted somewhat as aresult of the large number of marginal stitches lining the buttonhole.The tip 42 of the lapel will almost invariably be considerably roundedand otherwise misshapen in comparison with the sharp point of thepattern. Furthermore, the degree or inclination of the tip of the lapelin comparison with the position of the collar will very frequently be atvariance with the design of the pattern as in icated by the arrow. Itwill be noted that the edge 49 of the collar not only does not conformto the curvature of the collar molding edge 3318 but is spacedconsiderably therefrom and it will be found that if the lapel were, forthe moment, freed from the molding edge 33A and the edge is of thecollar were moved closely against the wall 333 of the mold, the angle ofinclination of the tip would involve a still greater departure from thepattern than that illustrated.

To remedy th above-noted discrepancies and to completely re-shape andmold the material into substantially exact conformity with the patternby the use of pressures applied only exterto the surface of the materialmy novel method provides for the initial step of thoroughly steaming thematerial. As is known in the gar" ment pressing art, the effect of steamon garment material is to render it somewhat plastic and easily moldableto the form desired. While the material is in this semi-plasticcondition I next manually distribute and crowd the material against andwithin a confining wall which restricts the edge of the material to theshape desired. Thus, as illustrated in 6, where my method is beingemployed to shape the lapel Of a garment, I have found that the firststep of manipulating thermaterial to bring its edge in snug engagementwith the molding wall should preferably be to draw the tip 32 of thelapel well into the corner 33D of the mold and this may be easilyaccomplished by the use of a thread 58 which has been caught through thetip end 5?. of the lapel prior to the steaming step. Then, after thecloth has been steamed, the thread may be tensioned to draw the tip 32into the sharp corner and the thread should be secured to maintain thetip in this position. The step of manipulating material to confine it tothe shape desired also includes manually moving the material to bringthe edge of the lapel closely contiguous to the molding edge 33A of themold throughout its entire length and the edge 69 of the collar shouldsimilarly be moved firmly against the edge 33B of the mold.

When the material has been so steamed and manipulated to position itclosely adjacent the moldin edge, it will be found that there is a surplus of material confined adjacent the molding edge which will cause abillowing or undulating of the material, as illustrated at 6% in Fig. 6.Thus it will be apparent that when the tip of the lapel was crowded intothe sharp angular recess 3313 of the mold, an excessive amount ofmaterial was disposed throughout the angular portion 33C of the mold,which surplus is illustrated at Bi in Fig. 8. Similarly throughout theentire area of material to be molded there will be a surplus of materialwhich because of the ction of the steam, will undulate as indicated. Thenext step in my method comprises applying pressure to the upper andlower surfaces of the material to flatten out the billows and initiate amolding pressurebetween the. edge of the mold and the edge of thematerial through the resultduring the time when the material ing lateraldisplacement or extrusion of the material at the edges. Thus, asillustrated in Fig. 9, the material has been supported on a suitableflat surface lb and a suitable pressure applying medium H is broughtinto engagement with the entire top surface of the material, wherebypressure is applied to both surfaces of the material. As a result ofthis pressure on the surplus material illustrated at E! the materialwill flatten out, as shown at A, thereby exerting lateral pressurebetween the side edges so and d5 of the material and the walls 330 ofthe confining body. If the material be held in this flattened conditionfor a brief interval during which the pressures are maintained betweenthe sides of the material and the molding walls, it will be found thatthe material will redistribute itself and will permanently set in itsconfining walls.

I have found that the effectiveness of my novel method can be furtherenhanced by an additional ironing step wherein sirmdtaneously with theapplication of pressure between the edge of the material and the moldingwall, the wall is passed transversely of the edge. Thus as indicated bya comparison of Figs. 8 and 9, the confining walls 33 were loweredduring the period when the material was being compressed between theupper and lower members H and it. This additional ironing step aids inmore sharply defining the edges.

As stated above, the lapel and collar portions will not be reproduced inthe garment in exact conformity with the pattern even though the edgesbe perfectly shaped, unless the lapel and collar is turned back toexpose an area which not only conforms exactly with the width of thepattern, but which also reproduces exactly the lapel of the design inthe position of the edge of the lapel and collar relative to the bodyportion of the coat. To insure mechanically that the folded-backportions accord with the design and to eliminate the necessity for askillful and careful manual operation in this respect, I provide thatsimultaneously with the molding of the edge and is plastic under theinfluence of the steaming step, the gar ment is impressed with anelongated indentation disposed at a predetermined distance from themolded edge whereby to render the lapel and collar easily foldable alongthe grooved portions and to initiate the fold at the desired position.Thus, as indicated in Fig. '7, an impression to is made in the garmentat a predetermined dis-- tance A from the inner extremity of the notchseparating the lapel and collar and at the proper angle relative to theedge 46A of the lapel to provide a fold in the desired position.

With a garment molded in accordance with my novel method it will befound that the edges 66A and 39A of the lapel and collar respectivelyhave been brought in substantially exact conformity to the pattern andwill retain their shape when the material is removed'from the mold.Furthermore the point dZA of the lapel. has been transformed from therounded and comparatively. unsightly tip A12 to a sharp point asdesired. It the design of the pattern had provided a rounded tip ratherthan the sharply pointed one illustrated, the proper curvature would bereproduced in the garment. Furthermore the angle of inclination of thetip indicated by the arrow, has been reproduced in the garment. When thegarment is removed it will be found further that the lapel and collarwill fold back almost of their the shape imparted to it by the pattern.

As stated above, it is one of the objects of my invention to improve onthe apparatus disclosed the provision with my novel molds. Theadvantages secured by the provision of such members will appear as thedescription proceeds and will be pointed out in detail hereinafter.

Referring now to Figs. 10l5 inclusive, my pressing machine comprises ineneral a lower presser member or table Hi5, suitably mounted, which isadapted to support and removably position one or a plurality of pressingmolds in operat1ve position. As indicated in the drawings, the

ing of a right and left hand lapel and collar portion of two coats ofthe same style. To that end the table .5538 is provided with a pair offlat supporting surfaces 15!, the left hand one of which is shown inFig. l0,the right hand surface lei being concealed by the mold assemblyH32 which 18 shown in pressing supporting piece 85, as shown in Fig.pose the molding edge wall 04.

The table i553 is provided at its periphery with forming a continuationof the upper exposed cloth supporting surface of the member i535 and tothat of a thickend the ledge or plate H0 should be exceeding somewhatthe thickness of the material to be molded, the table M30 is providedwith three spring supported platforms, two of which are disposed in theback of the machine, as indicated at E25 and 52!, and the third of whichis disposed in the front of the machine 'tical wall M; i.

. more extensive than the Secured to the top of the wall I4! is a plateM 2 which projects somewhat over the surface ME? to form therewith arecess adapted to receive a flange Hi3 (Fig. 11) which is castintegrally with the mold The plate M2 provided for the front platformI22 is somewhat corresponding plates removably secure the front flangesM4 the right and left hand Fig. 11.

with an orifice 56! which communicates by suitable piping 562 (Fig. 13)with a steam supply andralso with a second orifice I63 whichcommunicates by means of the piping I64 with any form of suctionapparatus well known in the art. It will be noted that the clothsupporting piece 5% is perforated throughout its cloth supporting areaas indicated at are and these perforations communicate from the exposedsurface of the piece 135 to a chamber Ill which is formed by hollowingout the under surface of thepiece I65. As described in my copendingapplication, the cloth supporting surface of the supporting piece isstrengthened and reinforced by a plurality of nubs H2 formed withinthechamberand on the top surface thereof. These nubs H2 project downwardlyto rest on the surface it! of the table and afford support against thehigh pressures exerted by the upper presser member. By the provision ofthe chamber Ill, which is continuous throughout the under surface of thesupporting piece except for the area occupied by the nubs, I am able tosecure distribution of steam or vacuum throughout the entire surface ofthe supporting piece and yet require but a single point of supply in thesurface of the table as indicated at ISI or I53. The dowels I45, abovereferred to, may be received by recesses drilled in suitable nubs whichare positioned to fit over the dowels as shown in Fig. 15, or ifdesired, the dowels may be of sufficient height to project intocorresponding recesses in the upper surface of the chamber HI.

As described above in connection with the method aspect of my invention,it is most desirable to be able to impress the material with anelongated indentation whereby to initiate a fold in the material at thedesired position. For this purpose the ledges Hi3 are each provided witha rib I88 which may be cast in the upper surface of the ledge H9 orwhich may comprise separate elements suitably secured to the surface ofthe ledge. The steam and drying air should have access to that portionof the material which is to be grooved and for that purpose the ledge orplate H5 is chambered in its under surface as indicated at I82 andprovided with suitable strengthening nubs. The chambers I1! and I82communicate with each other and the plate Iii] is provided withperforations I83 communicating with the chamber I82.

I have found that a more effective operation of impressing the clothwith an indentation can be obtained by providing, in each of the facesI5I of th upper presser member, a groove IBI which is properlypositioned in the face I5I to receive its rib I38 when the machine isclosed. The grooves it! should preferably be cut in the shape indicatedin Fig. 14 and be lined with cloth padding 2 3i which will provide ayielding cushion to cooperate with the ribs I88 and will adapt the riband groove for efiicient operation with all the various thicknesses ofmaterial with which my machine is designed for use.

To secure the material in pressing position with the edge of thematerial to be molded closely abutting against the molding wall I534 ofthe mold, each of the molds is provided with two spring pressed clipsI95? and I9I secured to the flanges i 33 and M4 respectively of themold. To draw the point of the lapel firmly into the correspondingnotch'of the molding edge I94, the above mentioned piece of thread whichis caught through the point of the lapel, is guided through a groove I92formed in the mold and to spring pressed thread engaging means I93secured to the rear portions of each of the platforms I20 and IN. Thedetails of the spring clips and thread engaging means are set forth inmy prior application.

In conclusion it should be stated that the description of my novelpressing machine has been confined, with the exceptions noted, to thenovel features of construction which form the subject matter of myinvention and it is to be understood that my device is provided with allof the usual appurtenances which are common to machines of this type.Thus the apparatus shown for conducting steam and drying air to andthrough the materi l will be constructed as has been found most suitablein the art and will include the usual system of treadles for operatingthe necessary valves. The device should also include the usual treadlesand associated mechanisms for producing varying degrees of pressurebetween upper presser member I50 and the material to be pressed and suchmechanism should be adapted to lock the member I50 into firm engagementwith material disposed on the cloth supporting surfaces I05.

With the device constructed as above described, its operation is asfollows: The proper mold assemblies for the right and left lapels ofgarments of one style are first inserted in the machine by inserting theflanges M3 and MG of the molds under the plates M2 of the front and rearplatforms. By this arrangement each mold I83 will be secured in elevatedposition as shown in Fig. 10 and its cloth supporting piece I85 willdrop down torest on the supporting surface Itl of the table Iilil withthe corresponding edges of the piece m5 and ledge IIU closely abuttingeach other, being secured in that position by the dowels M5 received bythe corresponding recesses in the bottom of the piece I95.

The material is then inserted in pressing position and is molded andpressed in themanner described in my prior apparatus application. Whenthe presser member I59 is lowered to exertmolding pressures on thematerial the faces i5! of the presser member will first engage the upperexposed surfaces of the molds I233 and depress them as is permitted bythe spring pressed platforms I20, IN and I22 which yieldingly hold themolds in elevated position. Further depression of the member I56 willcause initial contact between the faces I5I and the material and thecontinued downward movement of the member I56 will cause a lateralspreading of the material at its edge portions and a simultaneousfurther depression of the molds Hi3 until the final pressing closure isreached, in which position the machine is locked.

Fig. 13 indicates the machine locked closed in molding position and itwill there be observed that'the upper surface of the ledge IIll forms acontinuation of the cloth supporting surface of the member M35 so thatthe material, represented at 2%, lies in a continuous flat plane fromthe edge I64 of the mold to the outer edge of the machine. The rib i8!)is disposed in predetermined position relative to the molding edge 5Mand it will be noted that when the machine is closed the groove orrecess ,l8i in the surface I5I of the member I53 will receive theprotuberance in the material formed by the rib I88. I have found thatthe provision of such a complementary groove improves the formation ofthe fold defining crease and at the same time insures that the materialdisposed on either side of the groove will be firmly engaged between thepressing surface I5! and the lower cloth supporting surface. Byproviding a permanent set of ribs as a part of the ledges H9, I haveeliminated the necessity for providing each cloth supporting piece withits individual rib as was contemplated by my prior construction. Thevariations in distance from the rib I80 to the molding wall l 64 as arerequired by changes in the style of the garment, can readily be providedfor by constructing the different cloth. supporting pieces H35 of theproper compensating widths.

I claim:

1. The method of shaping margins of material to be folded whichcomprises supporting the material, confining edge portions thereof tothe desiredcontour by manipulating the material to position its edgeportions contiguous to an edge confining body, passing steam into thematerial to soften the same and subsequently pressing and molding thematerial by applying pressure to the surfaces of the material andresisting the lateral displacement of the edge portions thereofresulting from the pressure against the surfaces and simultaneouslydefining the position of a fold by impressing in the material anindentation to render the material easily foldable at a predetermineddistance from its edge.

2. The method of shaping edge portions of material which comprisesconfining edge portions thereof to the desired contour by manipulatingthe material to position its edge portions contiguous to an edgeconfining body, passing steam into the material to soften the same andsubsequently pressing and molding the material by applying pressure tothe surfaces of the material, resisting the lateral displacement of theedge portions thereof resulting from the pressure against the surfacesof the material and simultaneously passing the edge confining bodytransversely of the edge of the material.

3. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesconfining edge portions of the material, extruding the edge of thematerial by applying pressure to the surfaces of the material andsimultaneously resisting said extrusion and passing the confining bodytransversely of the edge of the material to iron the same.

4. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesconfining edge portions of the material, passing steam through thematerial, drawing the edge of the material firmly against its confiningbody, extruding the edge of the material by applying pressure to thesurfaces of the material and simultaneously resisting said extrusion andpassing the confining body transversely of the edge of the material toiron the same.

5. The method of shaping the points of a garment which comprises placingthe material adjacent an edge confining body, externally engaging thematerial and pressing the portion thereof to be pointed against the saidedge confining body throughout substantially the entire edge portion tobe molded whereby to compress the edge laterally to substantially thepointed shape desired, and thereafter simultaneously applying pressureto the surface of the material to compress the material in the directionof the pressure thus applied, resisting lateral displacement of the edgeportions initiated by said pressure and relatively moving the confiningbody and material in a direction transverse of the edge of the materialwhereby to set the point in the shape desired, I

6. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesplacing edge portions of the material adjacent an edge confining body,producing pressure against the edge of the material and relativelymoving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse ofthe said edge of the material whereby to mold and iron the edge to thedesired shape.

7. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesplacing edge portions of the material and an edge pressing body inabutting relationship, producing pressure between the edge of thematerial and the edge pressing body and relatively moving the pressingbody and the material in a direction transverse of the said edge of thematerial, whereby to mold and iron the edge to the desired shape.

8. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesplacing edge portions of the material and an edge pressing body inabutting relationship, producing pressure between the edge of thematerial and the edge pressing body and moving the pressing body in adirection transverse of the said edge of the material, whereby to moldand iron the edge to the desired shape.

9. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesplacing edge portions of the material adjacent an edge confining body,confining the surfaces of the material between substantially parallelpressure-applying surfaces, and thereafter applying pressure to thesurfaces of the material, producing pressure against the edge of thematerial and relatively moving the confining body and the material in adirection transverse of the said edge of the material.

10. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesconfining and initially pressing the edge of the material tosubstantially the lateral shape desired and simultaneously producingundulations in the surface of the material adjacent the confined edgethereof, subsequently increasing the pressure against the edge byapplying pressure to the said undulations in the surface of the materialand simultaneously relatively moving the confining body and the materialin a direction transverse of the edge of the mate rial whereby to pressthe surface of the material and mold the edge thereof to the desiredshape.

11. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprisesplacing the material adjacent an edge confining body, steaming thematerial to render it plastic, externally engaging the material andpressing plastic edge portions thereof against the said edge confiningbody and simultaneously producing undulations in the surface of thematerial adjacent the confined edge thereof, subsequently producingpressure between the edge and its confining body by applying pressure tothe said undulations in the surface of the material and simultaneouslyrelatively moving the confining body and the material in a directiontransverse of the edge of the material whereby to press the surface ofthe material and mold the edge thereof to the desired shape.

12. The method of shaping margins of material to be folded whichcomprises confining and initially pressing the edge of the material tosubstantially the lateral shape desired and simultaneously producingundulations in a surface of the material adjacent the confined edgethereof, engaging and lightly depressing an elongated portion of onesurface of the material disposed in predetermined position relative tothe confined edge thereof and thereafter simultaneously increasing thepressure against the edge and fixing an elongated impression in thematerial by applying pressure against the undulated surface thereof andrelatively moving the confining body and the material in a directiontransverse of the edge of the material whereby to mold the edge of thematerial to the shape desired and render the material easily foldable ata predetermined distance from its molded edge.

13. The method of shaping margins of material to be folded whichcomprises placing the material adjacent an edge confining body, steamingthe material to render it plastic, externally engaging the material andpressing plastic edge portions thereof against the said edge confiningbody and thereafter simultaneously applying increased pressure betweenthe edge and its confining body and depressing an elongated portion of asurface of the material in predetermined po sition relative to the edgeconfining body by applying pressure against a surface thereof andrelatively moving the confining body and the material in a directiontransverse of the edge of the material whereby to mold the edge of thematerial to the shape desired and render the material easily foldable atsaid depressed portion.

14. The method of shaping the lapel portions of a garment whichcomprises steaming the material to render it plastic, engaging the tipof the lapel adjacent the extremity thereof and drawing it firmly intoan edge molding recess whereby to compress the edge of the lapel tip tosubstantially the lateral shape desired, fastening the lapel tip in itslaterally compressed position and subsequently producing pressurebetween the edge of the lapel tip and its molding recess by applyingpressure to the surface of the material whereby to press the surface ofthe lapel tip and mold the edge thereof to the shape desired.

15. The method of shaping the lapel portions of a garment whichcomprises steaming the material to render it plastic, manipulating thetip of the lapel to press plastic edge portions thereof against an edgemolding wall, manipulating edge portions of the collar and edge portionsof the lapel remote from the tip to distribute and press the sameagainst an edge molding wall and simultaneously delineating the shape ofthe notch separating the lapel and collar and subsequently producingpressure between the edge of the material and its molding wall andmoving the edge confining body and the material relatively in adirection transverse of the edge of the material to mold the edge of thematerial to the shape desired.

16. The method of shaping the lapel portions of a garment whichcomprises steaming the material to render it plastic, manipulating thetip of the lapel to press plastic edge portions thereof against an edgemolding wall, man pulating edge portions of the collar and edge portionsof the lapel remote from the tip to distribute and press the sameagainst an edge molding wall and simultaneously delineating the shape ofthe notch separating the lapel and collar and subsequently producingpressure between the edge of the material and its molding wall to moldthe edge of the material to the shape desired and forming an impressionin the surface of the material in predetermined position relative to theshaped edge thereof to render the material easily foldable.

17. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing moldcomprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, thecombination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member,means for removably securing the cloth supporting member on the table,means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding Wall to expose amolding surface of a height which exceeds the thickness of the materialto be pressed and pressing means adapted to depress the molding wall andto press the material.

18. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing moldcomprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, thecombination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member,means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting memberon the table, said means including a ledge on the periphery of the tableadapted to abut the said member, means for yieldingly supporting theedge molding wall with an exposed molding surface of a height to exceedthe thickness of the material to be pressed and a presser member adaptedto depress the molding wall so that its height does not exceedsubstantially the thickness of the material whereby to press the surfaceof the material and simultaneously to mold the edge thereof.

19. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing moldcomprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, thecombination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member,means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting memberon the table, said means including a ledge on the periphery of the tableadapted to abut the said member and having an exposed surface forming acontinuation of the supporting surface of said member, means foryieldingly supporting the edge molding wall with an exposed moldingsurface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material to bepressed and a presser member adapted to depress the molding wall so thatits height does not exceed substantially the thickness of the materialwhereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneously to moldthe edge thereof.

20. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing moldcomprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, thecombination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member,means for removably positioning A and securing the cloth supportingmember on the table, said means including a ledge on the periphery ofthe table adapted to abut the said member and having an exposed surfaceforming a continuation of the supporting surface of said member, a ribon the ledge adapted to impress the material with an elongatedindentation whereby to initiate a fold in a predetermined portion of thematerial, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall with anexposed molding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of thematerial to be pressed and a presser member adapted to depress themolding Wall so that its height does not exceed substantially thethickness of the material whereby simultaneously to press the surface ofthe material, mold the edge thereof and initiate the fold in apredetermined portion of the material relative to the molded edge.

21. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing moldcomprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, thecombination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member,means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting memberon the table including a ledge on the periphery of the table adapted toabut the said member and having an exposed surface forming acontinuation of the supporting surface of said member, a rib on theledge adapted to impress the material with an elongated indentationwhereby to initiate a fold in a predetermined portion of the material,means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall With an exposedmolding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material tobe pressed, at presser member adapted to depress the molding Wall sothat its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of thematerial whereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneouslyto mold the edge thereof, and a reeess in the surface of the pressermember adapted to receive protruding portions of the material adjacentthe rib.

22. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing moldcomprising acloth supporting member and an edge molding Wall, thecombination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member,means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting memberon the table including a ledge on the periphery of the table, adapted toabut the said member and having an exposed surface forming acontinuation of the supporting surface of said member, a rib 011 theledge adapted to impress the material with an elongated indentationwhereby to initiate a fold in a predetermined portion of the material,means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall With an exposedmolding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material tobe pressed, 2, presser member adapted to depress the molding wall sothat its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of thematerial Whereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneouslyto mold the edge thereof, and a recess in the surface of the pressermember adapted to receive protruding portions of the material adjacentthe rib, said recess being cloth padded internally to conform to varyingthicknesses of material to be pressed.

FRANK PAPARELLA.

